Ferru e Cuaddu – A New Seaside Crag in Southwest Sardinia
Perched on the cliffs between Buggerru and San Nicolò beach, along the wild western coast of Sardinia, a new gem for climbing enthusiasts has emerged: Ferru e Cuaddu.
This is the first crag on the island to be entirely bolted with titanium, a material chosen for its high resistance and durability, especially in marine environments. The name pays homage to the area's history, as the location was once known as Ferru e Cuaddu.
A Community-Driven Project Ferru e Cuaddu was born from the “Adopt a Route” campaign, a grassroots initiative supported by numerous local businesses. Their financial contributions made it possible to purchase titanium bolts and epoxy resin. As a gesture of thanks, each route is named after the business that helped fund it — a testament to the deep connection between this crag and the surrounding community.
A Stunning Setting and Quality Rock The crag sits in a spectacular panoramic position, right above the sea. The limestone is of excellent quality and offers a variety of climbing styles: technical slabs, vertical walls, and short overhangs — perfect for diverse climbing experiences in a wild, scenic environment.
It can be climbed for most of the year, except during the coldest months and on days with strong mistral winds.
Access Info Access is straightforward. You can park along the SP83 road at kilometer 27.300, in a large roadside pull-out (GPS: 39.411516, 8.406570), directly above the crag. A trail heading south from the parking area leads to the base of the wall in about 5–10 minutes (GPS: 39°24'40"N 8°24'18"E). A short exposed section is equipped with a handrail.
About the Crag Currently, 23 routes have been established by Mariano Zurru and Giorgio Pusceddu, with the help of Diego Zurru and Cristiano Congia. The crag will be expanded with new lines on nearby walls and the seaward face. Please refrain from bolting independently and contact the route setters if you have proposals or suggestions.
Although the walls have been cleaned, this is a newly developed area, so wearing a helmet is strongly recommended. Anchors currently consist of two titanium bolts connected by a cord and lowering ring. Full titanium anchors may be installed in the future.
Titanium is particularly prone to wear from rope friction, so we kindly ask climbers to leave their own carabiners clipped into the anchor until ready to lower off.
Thank you for your cooperation.
Acknowledgements Special thanks to the businesses that helped fund the project: Gastronomia Cottu e Pappau, L’Oasi di Licia, Il Bananao Beach Club, Ristorante Stella Maris, Galleria 13 Santiago Bistro, Macelleria da Dany, Ristorante Aqua, B&B Mille Soli, Ristorante La Baia da Tore, Soul Wave Surf Shop, Ristorante La Privilegiata, Bar Fratelli Orrù (Il Dopo Lavoro), DidoBeach, Sosta Camper San Nicolò, B&B Alelca, Mormora Tour, Pasticceria Farina Amore & Fantasia.
A huge thank you to Mariano and Giorgio for the bolting, and for patiently sharing their knowledge. And to those who helped with cleaning the walls and building the trail: Willy Sardu, Nicola Porcu, Eleonora Caccia, Giacomo Rombi, Luca and Sandro Chessa.
And to everyone who supported and contributed to the project: Valentina Andreucetti, Elisa Abendroth, Matteo Puggioni, Alessia Ecca, Alessandro Congia, Margherita Manca, Gaia Frau.
Enjoy the climbing!
1 Cottu e Pappau 6a
2 L'oasi di Licia 6c
3 Il Bananao 6c
4 Stella Maris 6c
5 L'accademia dei matti 7b
6 Da Dany 6b+
7 La tomba della civetta 6a+
8 Mille Soli 5b 9 La Baia da Tore 5b
10 Soul Wave 6a+ / 6b
11 Mormora Tour 6c
12 Fratelli Orrù 6a+
13 DidoBeach 6b
14 Sosta camper San Nicolò 6b+
15 Bungee Jumping 6b+
16 Il confessionale 6c
17 Alelca 6a+
18 La Privilegiata 6a
19 Farina Amore & Fantasia 5c
20 Aqua 5b
21 Galleria 13 5c
22 Gatto nel carbone 6b
23 Koka Kola 6b
For any information you can contact Marco Bigatti for other information about the area you can see here
